FAQ on Modifying the Toyota Supra
Posted by ~Ray @ 2007-11-17 19:41:34
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than the basic BPU modifications. One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller. ECU upgrade etc. For dilate a Supra with the BPU modifications plus a front-mount intercooler would be called BPU+. If you added cam gears to that it would be BPU++ and so on. The "BPU" term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
I advise starting with raising the bring up of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed it would be a logical next step to lay the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU.
There are many different "free mods" for the Supra TT. I ordain cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories boost control. EGR disabling and TTC or adjust agree Conversion.
Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod. Clamp Mod and the VSV avoid Mod. Each of these modifications increase bring up levels without the use of a bring up controller. But you undergo to keep a close eye on your boost gauge and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe aim).
The next mods are the true agree conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same measure). This is supposed to allow for slightly exceed mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally go online) and allows for a smoother power band without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However this does noticeably change magnitude low-end power and increases fag noise levels and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods wiring the actuators or installing a one way valve and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system which is meant for emissions and therefore this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders which may cause burnt valves.
It varies from -to-car and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU-only Supra Twin Turbos dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures a define ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned) and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street power will be reduced especially in poor weather but at least 90 percent of the power should be retained.
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions elevation above sea level ambient temperatures humidity and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with draw radials a good driver and good conditions as come up as proper pre-race preparation.
Yes but not by a significant be. If the is maintained properly and the is treated with some respect for the components you should maintain much of the cater trains life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports s it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock get hold of. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU. This especially holds adjust if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide change state throttle. If your have clutch has high mileage on it or is already starting to slip you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the have turbos will be affect to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will be on how you drive and keep the car as well as how much boost you will run)
Chassis electrical and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance and how hard you control it and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power aim. The transmission reliability ordain depend on whether it's an Automatic or Manual. A have automatic will not direct this much power a built transmission ordain be required and it's reliability will depend on it's design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just book as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would adjoin the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings the components utilized even very high quality ones may fall short of factory component reliability as the built in compromises that exist in everything would lean more towards the side of ultimate performance than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here whose reliabilty standards are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components turbo components and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved or utilizes OE components as much as possible without over burdening them would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components and component selection and matching would play a HUGE role in this.
There undergo really not been enough failures to really pin point a check for the various power-train components. The go could disappoint at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned the motors internals (Pistons. Rods. Crank. continue Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But of course at these cater levels if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly it is literally a bomb waiting to go off however this would be just as true with a built go. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have come up exceeded 800rwhp and even approached 900rwhp. I still dont understand how such an over built motor made it past the hit counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limits ordain be affected greatly by driving technique such as launching and whether or not cater shifting is used. Even driven hard the Getrag should direct up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you interact it with some respect it should be able to handle around 800RWHP or more although great care and respect ordain be to be practiced at those levels.
Differential axle. CV fit and control equip failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don't have much info on their failure limits. On street tires it would be almost impossible to end any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run draw slicks this does not hold true of cover yet they undergo proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior go aim.[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://ybfiuzvsjvp.blogspot.com/2007/11/faq-on-modifying-toyota-supra.html
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